One of the most notable sounds you’ll hear in Hyderabad’s Old City district is the tak-tak-tak-tak rhythm of artisans hammering away at chandni ka warq, the distinctive silver foil still found draped on many dishes of the city’s decadent cuisine. Sadly, it’s a craft that’s slowly disappearing. I hit the lanes near Charminar to report on this dying tradition for the global baking issue of Saveur, out on newsstands now.

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